We left on Saturday March 31 at roughly 8 AM for a 10:45 flight. In the United States I would consider this completely normal for domestic travel: 30 minutes to get there, and 2 hours for security and bag checking. Seems about fair. Phillip agreed with me based on his past experiences, but the other half of our group didn’t think we needed that much time. Turns out they were right. New Zealand domestic security is probably the most laid back TSA equivalent I’ve ever seen and took us no more than 10 minutes. What followed was about two hours of intense Kindle-reading and then we were finally airborne.
After picking up our goliath of a car, an 8-seat van, and doing an initial chaotic grocery run in Christchurch we began the 3 hour drive to Lake Tekapo, near Mt. Cook where we planned to hike the following day. The lake was magnificent, an incredible blue that seemed to stretch for miles and give no indication of depth or activity. It also came with a fair amount of wind that eventually sent us scurrying back to the marshmallow of a car while we finished our drive to the hostel for the evening.
We stayed on a pretty large farm that night owned by a very talkative man named Tony. Tony had been farming basically all his life and was eager to tell us all about the political situations in Christchurch and how awful life was for farmers in New Zealand.
“New Zealand is actually in a technical recession,” I remember him saying while explaining there is not even a computer on the property. He also had large amounts of his personal and the farm’s finances available for viewing in an effort to explain just how little he is able to make with the property outside of turning his home into a hostel. It was definitely an interesting first night that gave us all a lot to think about...eventually. At first I know I personally brushed off a lot about what he was saying about the situation in Christchurch but after seeing the city first hand...well, I’ll get there. We made chili that night in an epic fashion of too small pots and so much meat and it was delicious.
Phillip walking along a suspension bridge to Hooker Lake
We got a relatively early start for Mt. Cook the next day, considering we still had to make the drive to Queenstown that night. The best trek option seemed to be a 3 hour loop to Hooker lake that gave us fantastic views of the massive mountain throughout the journey. It had all kinds of suspension bridges and beautiful views of not only Cook but also the smaller hills and tundra-esque landscape that seems to dominate parts of the eastern side of the South Island, nothing like the Temperate Rainforests we got used to in Milford Sound and Abel Tasman. After that we ate lunch in the car using a technique we developed the day before of a moderately-efficient assembly line turning out ham sandwiches quite rapidly. Since we had a little time left before we really needed to head towards Queenstown we decided to go and find the clay cliffs.
View of the Clay Cliffs
Nobody warned us this would basically take our van off road as the access was completely unpaved and bumpy as hell but, oh well. Definitely worth the experience to scrabble around rock formations with the presence of gothic pillars. It took us 30 minutes after the first sign post to actually reach the cliffs feeling every jostle in the hefty car. Finally, we had a very scenic drive into Queenstown where we stayed in this incredible place called the Adventure Hostel complete with a fully stocked kitchen and a movie room. Some much needed relaxing occurred with a little pasta, American Made, and finishing it off the Predator into the AM.
Beginning our full day in Queenstown we decided to head towards the harbor and just have a look around. This proved to be an incredible idea as I don’t think I’ve ever been more stunned by a lake in my life.
Lake Wakatipu
We took our time exploring the town jutting to the right and eventually circled back to walk through the park just out of shot on the left. It turned out to be this entire peninsula of walking tracks, frisbee golf, tennis courts, and just a really nice place to spend some time looking out at the lake.
From left to right: Hart, Phillip, Kat, Camille
In the afternoon we took the Gondola up Bob’s Peak to do some Luge and got some fantastic views of the town below. The Luge was basically go karting where gravity gave you the momentum and it was an absolute blast. We were able to get some camera footage of the action but I’m unsure how to put that in a blog right now so we’ll have to see if that’s something I can work out later...anyway over five runs only one of us crashed! And it wasn’t me! Luge was also one of the cheapest activities to do in the area so we were also pretty thrilled about that.
View from Bob’s Peak
The next day we had a very leisurely start...9 AM!! Shortly after we saw ourselves out of Queenstown and after a quick stop at the airport to fix a front light we headed to Te Anau where we would meet Peter fresh off of his two great walks and get an early start the next day for Milford Sound. We spent some time chilling on the beach before finding the Hostel and cooking dinner. Since we had to wake up at 5 the next day to make our 8 o’clock Kayak rental in Milford we had a pretty early night.
View along the road from Queenstown to Te Anau
At the rousing time of 5, we woke up and made breakfast hoping to be on the road for 6. Luckily, I didn’t have to drive and was able to just hole up in the back but as we got closer I couldn’t stay asleep. The environment around Milford sound is generally described as a Temperate Rainforest. All the things you love about a rainforest but none of the tropical weather. No one lives near the sound either, it’s all so remote and wild. The weather stayed true to what you’d expect in a rainforest too and by the time we got there it was pouring and wind was turning the rain sideways. The kayak guides decided the weather didn’t look too good to bring us out so instead they flipped the plan of events and we had a cruise in the sound that morning with the hopes the weather would let up in afternoon enough for us to get out there and kayak. We were also informed that almost 90% of the waterfalls visible in the sound are only present when it rains so we should be considered lucky!
Gusts of wind
The cruise was pretty amazing and the captain did a good job keeping the material engaging and interesting while we all battled the elements on the top deck. The rain did die down enough to be tolerable and water was only a problem when the boat went under some of the waterfalls. Sadly though the weather was still too hectic for kayaking so we headed back to Te Anau slightly earlier than we had originally planned.
The rest of the day we spent on a porch playing cards, throwing a frisbee, and drinking beer. Not too bad a way to spend some time.
View from within the Sound
The next day we headed to Wanaka where we would tackle our first big hike: Roy’s Peak. But that was tomorrow, today we needed more groceries and I took charge. That’s right, none of these guys knew my cooking history (or lack thereof) to question it so after deciding on Omelettes and Tacos we grabbed the necessary supplies and hit the road. This road took us back through Queenstown which was a stroke of luck I would have never seen coming if I hadn’t looked at a map. We were able to stop for food and have another crack at Fergburger which is this amazing burger joint last experienced at 3 in the morning on our second night in Queenstown. I was definitely jonesing for a second taste and this certainly delivered.
We stopped by a small town just for fun before making it to Wanaka. Arrowtown, an old Chinese mining settlement that had a pretty cool mainstreet and a lot of information on the Gold Rush in New Zealand. More importantly, it was a place I got Peter to stick his head into a sign.
When we finally did make it to Wanaka Phillip and I manned the grills making Omelettes. Something neither of us had successfully made before...the rest of the group caught on quick but that just meant while some people did end up with omelettes, others had a more egg-centric mash of different ingredients on a pile. I’d still call that a win.
This was the day we did Roy’s Peak. From the bottom, it didn’t look too bad...in fact you could almost see the entire trail from the base. Sadly, as we quickly learned, switchbacks and aggressive altitude gains turned out to be a pain in the ass and took an incredible amount of energy to get up. We did manage to have a lot of fun along the way with Phillip blasting 80s rock from his backpack and some fantastic photoshoots. As we got closer to the top the weather did begin to turn though and it was bitter cold and rainy when we enjoyed a summit refreshment. The descent is best described as a mad dash for the finish line where we kept up incredible speeds just to stay out of the rain and hopefully salvage whatever we had on before it was completely soaked through. Sadly, everything was soaked through.
An inquisitive Peter
A view close to the summit of the region below
Our next destination up the West Coast was Fox Glacier, home of...Fox Glacier. This turned into an incredibly long drive through some relatively adverse conditions but we did get there in the end. Before the drive really started though we manag off of lake Wanaka in this absolutely gorgeous vineyard. My takeaway was simply that Sauvignon Blanc is nasty, and I stand by that. We also had lunch down by the lake where we all took turns trying to skip stones with moderate success. And terrorize ducks. Once we finally got in we did make a point of walking to a nearby forest where we were told we could see some glow worms. I think overall we saw about seven but it was pretty cool walking through what felt like a jungle in the pitch black with a couple of headlamps.
The day after we got in to Fox Glacier we saw the titular frozen landscape and...well, it was relatively small and dirty. It was also a miserable wet slog of a hike to get there. This is my first glacier sighting so I have to admit I wasn’t sure what to expect...but I think it was more than what was there. According to nearby signage it did used to be a lot bigger but of course global temperatures rising and massive blocks of ice tend to not get along together. That afternoon we drove to Franz Josef to enjoy some much needed relaxation in hot pools where we did kill the better part of three hours before coming back and making Spaghetti Carbonara and trying out our hostel’s own hot tub.
Fox Glacier
The next day we began what would be a few days of intense driving with a few detours on our way up to Marahau where we would begin the Abel Tasman great walk. Today was the drive to Punakaiki and the weather again brought everything it had against us. Phillip mostly drove but at some point the plastic cover on one of the wipers flew off meaning the wipers had a sort of scratchy sound whenever they brushed against the window and sometimes the car seemed to be slowly pushed off of the road. We did make it though! Hart booked this place, we basically had a small little house to hang out in for the night while we eventually got around to making some sausages and ...broccoli? Might have been. It was cool because we also ended up in some pretty interesting discussions about European politics and of course, Donald Trump. Ewwww. Anyway there wasn’t much to do in our isolated location so after the traditional night time activity of cards and beer we all went to bed
View from a Gas Station
Hokitika Gorge
Only our final leg of the journey before Abel Tasman we drove up from Punakaiki to Marahau in what almost felt like a hurricane. We did get out to look at the Pancake rocks but that was more of a mad dash than thoughtful sightseeing. The hostel in Marahau was incredibly basic and had just enough that we could call it a roof and beds. Although I shouldn’t complain too much, Camille and Kat didn’t even have heating in their hut...we did all the prep work for the hike the night before so we could just get up and go the next day. Making sandwiches, prepping food, and seeing how much those of us with small backpacks could stuff in our bags and how much Hart and Peter could fit in their much larger packs. Before long it was past midnight and we really needed to get some sleep if we planned to be out and hiking by eight the next day
Due to late planning and a desire to do the walk in three days, our huts weren’t in ideal positions. The first day, we estimated to hike eight hours right along the coast before reaching the hut. The second day if everything went as planned would be a minimum of ten hours hiking while the third day consisted of only two for us to reach the parking lot. We packed decently, but could probably have done more to carry less cans and a smaller stove. All things considered though, we did pretty well for ourselves. We did get the early start we wanted on Wednesday and spent the day seeing spectacular beaches that weren’t far away from what you’d expect in the Carribean or other tropical islands. The deep blue water lapping against small islands just out of reach and white sand beaches were the subjects of many photo stops along the way. While I only carried a cell phone, both Camille and Kat brought fantastic cameras that have lead to even more breathtaking images. It was a long day, but a happy one. We passed the time telling jokes and riddles but also just taking time to appreciate where we were. We also came across our first tidal crossing and had to walk through a barren sand field in what almost could be mistaken with a desert to make it across. There was a small beach nearby where we stopped for some sandwiches and frisbee.
View from the trail
Peter on the beach
When we did finally make it to our hut it was almost dusk, and Peter surprised us all by pulling six cans of beer from his pack we could enjoy at a nearby beach. We did our best but the sand was so cold we retreated soon after finishing the well-earned beverages. That night we made a wonderful heap of rice and beans, going to bed stuffed and prepping for what would be our longest day.
From start to finish day two took us 13 hours on the trail. This isn’t too far off what we had expected when you account for a lunch break and a short stop at an i site while we waited out some of the rain. The sights weren’t as pretty as the first day, with a lot of our time spent deeper in the rainforest than perhaps we would have liked and occasional beach walks that made me realise just how annoying walking on sand is. There was also the time Peter, Hart, and I attempted to cross a massive beach barefoot over clam shells in an effort to “save time.” In retrospect, it was kind of stupid. I think my feet are still getting back at me for that. Everyone else was a little too smart for that and I’m very glad we stopped for lunch shortly after.
The only thing that really stunk was due to a recent storm, slips at made some of the Abel Tasman track unwalkable and we had to take detours generally over large hills. One time in particular, we had to forgo a scenic final few hours to our journey with a hike up “Gibbs Hill,” a hill I will forever remember as a massive incline and a dark descent as the sun set on our way up. The rest of the trek was done by headlamp and occasionally stopping to try and spot a kiwi in the rustling brush. When we did make it down to the cabin most people were already turning in for the night and there was no light fixtures. So we hung a headlamp from the ceiling and set about making pasta and playing cards.
Exit to the great walk
The hike out was incredibly simple in comparison and I don’t think I’ve ever been happier to see a van in my life. Particularly because ours was full of potato chips. Nothing celebrates a great walk like potato chips, and we spent a good amount of time in that parking lot celebrating all the snacks we had access to again. After that was the long drive to Hamner Springs, a good halfway point to Christchurch where we would soon be getting on a plane for Auckland. Again we were treated to an awesome little house we made full use of and Hart made some delicious butter chicken. Peter brought new meaning to “one with bed” and we overall had a nice, exhausted night playing...you guessed it...cards.
One with bed
We had a decision to make the next day: more time in Christchurch, or the hot springs of Hamner Springs. Eventually, we decided springs and they were amazing. A big improvement from the Franz Josef pools, Hamner Springs really sold the springs. It was like a water park for adults with multiple different pools of every temperature and an awesome lazy river for when we felt like racing on kickboards. Spending a good three hours there was a morning we all deserved and thoroughly enjoyed going between the various mineral waters and running our heads under the massaging waterfalls. Eventually we did have to leave though and finished the drive to our hostel right next to Christchurch Airport.
In relatively short order after arriving, we rushed into the city and...were amazed. The Earthquake struck eight years ago and yet it looked as if the quake could have been last week. All sorts of temporary construction fences walled off various buildings and vacant lots with rubble in Cathedral square that still hasn’t been cleared away. It was positively eery to think that all this devastation had happened close to a decade prior...and the whole city felt empty. Maybe we had come at a bad time but it was 6 pm on a Saturday, when else should it be full of life? I’m not sure Christchurch ever recovered after the quake and maybe there’s just nothing that can be done for now but the whole place just had a sort of quietness to it I wouldn’t associate to any other city I’ve been to. Nevertheless, we stopped by an Irish pub for a drink and ended up watching a match of super rugby before heading back to the hostel and making some soft shell tacos.
Christchurch
We didn’t get to bed until probably around 3 AM...this proved to be a bad move considering we had to wake up at six to finish packing and get to the airport for 7:30. No one was really at their best and many simply passed out in the airport and on the plane. Just like that our adventure was over and university reared its ugly head with such activities like “studying” and “homework.” All in all it was a fantastic two weeks with fantastic people
